compatibility....

[Darian]

Been tying up some poppers for top water Bassin' in da Delta. In I've found that when I use commercial, soft foam popper body (Wapsi in particular), I've run into compatibility issues between the foam, paint, Clear Cure goo and Sally Hansens, Hard as Nails. The paint I've been using is Testor's model airplane enamel.

After applying the paint, a coat of CCG and an alcohol wipe down (to remove the tackiness), I apply a coat of Hard as Nails. During the curing/drying process, the CCG appears to buckle or krinkle. Strange stuff.

This never happens when balsa, cork or hard foam bodies are used.... :confused:

[Jay Murakoshi]

Darian,

I'm finding a problem using foam and Solarez. Even though the Solarez dries hard, clear and non-tacky, when I squeeze the foam crease fly, it will crack. Some times the colors run. I think I need to seal the foam first.
I know these things will slay the dorado in a couple weeks. Heard there's some biggies out there right now. The bait is back

Jay

[Darian]

Maybe foam isn't a good match with UV cure resins?? :confused:

Sure wish I was going down to Baja with you. Next June, tho. Good luck!!! :D

[Dan LeCount]

Quit bein' so fancy pants and break out those old 2 part epoxy bottles pickin up dust on the shelf!

[Darian]

Yeah,.... It does apply easily and it's cheap. The only problems I've had with epoxy is that it tends to harden before I'm finished with application, requires a curing wheel and tends to harden in the bottle (even if kept in the frig) before I finish with a batch. Since I'm a hardcore salty and delta guy, now, I tend to bang bugs into the rip-rap banks which tends to chip/crack the heads. Also, it yellows after a period of exposure to sunlight. :confused: Damn!!! Is that all???? I can't imagine why I no longer use epoxy.... :lol: :lol:

Haven't experienced any of that with Clear Cure Goo.... 8)

[JD]

Yeah,.... It does apply easily and it's cheap. The only problems I've had with epoxy is that it tends to harden before I'm finished with application, requires a curing wheel and tends to harden in the bottle (even if kept in the frig) before I finish with a batch. Since I'm a hardcore salty and delta guy, now, I tend to bang bugs into the rip-rap banks which tends to chip/crack the heads. Also, it yellows after a period of exposure to sunlight. :confused: Damn!!! Is that all???? I can't imagine why I no longer use epoxy.... :lol: :lol:

Haven't experienced any of that with Clear Cure Goo.... 8)

Perhaps you should try Flexcoat instead? Would solve most of these problems, and is a lot more economical than most of the UV acrylics. So far the only feature of the UV acrylics that impresses me is how fast they cure. YMMV.

[Darian]

As a rod builder, I'm familiar with flex coat. IMO it's not much different than 5 minute epoxy. My experience with it is that it's usually on the shelf at stores for so long that it's yellow in the bottles or tubes before I take it home. Fine for rod building but not acceptable for the finishing heads on Sea Habit type flies.... :-|

[Mr T]

Perhaps you should try Flexcoat instead? Would solve most of these problems, and is a lot more economical than most of the UV acrylics. So far the only feature of the UV acrylics that impresses me is how fast they cure. YMMV.


As a rod builder, I'm familiar with flex coat. IMO it's not much different than 5 minute epoxy. My experience with it is that it's usually on the shelf at stores for so long that it's yellow in the bottles or tubes before I take it home. Fine for rod building but not acceptable for the finishing heads on Sea Habit type flies.... :-|

I have to go along with the yellowing on flex coat being an issue.

One rod epoxy I've had very good results with for the last 5 years has bene Bullard Diamond II epoxy. It's a slow cure, but to date it has not yellowed at all on my long range salt water rods. Not sure about how it holds up on banging rocks, but it stays clear!

[Dan LeCount]

Looks like Bullard Diamond II epoxy is temp out of business due to personal dealings but might be re-opening in October. I haven't played with clear cure goo too much, but used to use the Loon stuff back in the day. It was ok for some things, but sometimes it would slowly get separated from what it was glued to. Plus I didnt really like the whole UV light saber for my retinas, maybe Im being paranoid but I almost want to talk to an optometrist about it before I play with it a bunch. I would cure the Loon mostly in sunlight.

[Darian]

I hear ya, Dan. I have some of the same concerns about using the UV light. I try to use the sun to cure this stuff, too. Also, when using the light, I take care to never point it at my eyes and try to avoid directing it at my skin, as well. Even at that, I think there may be some reflection off the material when the light is in use. I wonder if polarized glasses would eliminate/reduce that potential exposure??

Most of the manufacturers take pains to make the point that they use a different spectrum of UV light to cure the material. Not sure if that changes anything with regard to exposure. Your point is well taken.